Home 9 Literary Archive 9 Cambodia

Cambodia

by Frank Meintjies

In Hao Lao, light shines through the death

Through the eyes of shackles

Stories tie-dyed in the colour of flags,

Stories moored by flagpoles. Flagpoles like stakes.

Prison built by the French.

run by administrators imbibing coffee – superior coffee – and

eating croissants. Dons at

creating and raising stakes; experts in expertise

and battering rams against our spirit world.

Iron shackles anchored to bed-frames

no sleepwalking to shores of freedom.

In the centre of a room: a guillotine.

The next day, I meet Vuth

He is steeped in memory work

He wants to know, ‘When will words like

never again truly mean never.’ He reveres Mandela; we

doff our hats, proverbially, but

he wonders

how are we really doing; are South Africans

really conversing? We rabbit on: how the story

goes from prisons to museums. Can trauma

bridge us to democracy? In 1975, this Phnom Penh was

a ghostly town. Someone like Vuth 

would be taken to the fields, to work. Now

new-coin bright, now straggly and grit-lined, it’s

filled with youth, beeping tuk-tuks, tourists. I slide

a beaded flag, stamp-sized and pinnable

across the table. We rise, exchange wan smiles and hug.